Quick answer
A sticking door has three common causes: loose hinge screws (top hinge sag pulls the door out of alignment), seasonal humidity swelling (worse in summer), or house settling (structural — larger issue). Try the free fix first — swap the top hinge's short screws for 3-inch screws that reach the framing. This pulls the door back into alignment. If it only sticks in summer, wait for winter or plane the sticky edge.
Key facts
| Common causes | Loose top hinge screws; Humidity swelling; House settling; Warped door |
|---|---|
| DIY difficulty | Easy |
| Time to fix | 30 min |
| Parts cost | $0–$5 parts |
| Tools needed | Screwdriver, longer screws (3-inch), planer or sandpaper |
| When to call a pro | If door misalignment traces to settlement (cracked walls too) |
What's happening
Interior doors are hung on hinges that are typically screwed only into the door jamb (thin trim) using 3/4-inch screws. Over years, the weight of the door pulls the top hinge loose, and the door sags toward the strike side. This is why doors sticking at the top corner is so common. The fix is trivial: replace one screw in the top hinge with a 3-inch screw that reaches through the jamb into the framing behind. That single screw pulls the door back into proper alignment.
Common causes (ranked by frequency)
- Loose top hinge screws 60% of cases
The most common cause and easiest fix. Replace one short screw in the top hinge with a 3-inch screw.
- Humidity swelling 25%
Wood doors absorb moisture in humid weather and swell. Only fix is planing the sticky edge or running dehumidification.
- House settling 10%
Foundation settling causes the frame to shift. Door sticks in a new location or diagonal cracks appear in walls near the door. Structural — may need professional evaluation.
- Warped door 5%
Cheap hollow-core doors warp with humidity changes. Only fix is replacement.
How to diagnose
- Open door 90 degrees and look at the top hinge. Any gap between hinge and jamb? Any movement when you push/pull the door?
- Check the pattern. Sticks year-round = hinges or settling. Sticks only in summer = humidity swelling.
- Look at surrounding walls — any diagonal cracks near the door frame corners? Yes = possible settlement issue.
- Identify the exact sticking point — top corner (hinge sag), bottom corner (bottom hinge or floor issue), side (frame warp).
The fixes
Fix #1 — Replace top hinge screw with 3-inch screw Free fix
The single most effective door fix. Pulls the door back into alignment permanently.
Tools
- Screwdriver (Phillips)
- Drill (optional, for pilot hole)
Materials
- One 3-inch wood screw (match hinge screw head style)
- Open the door fully so weight is off the hinges.
- Remove one screw from the top hinge — pick the middle screw or the one closest to the jamb edge.
- Optional: pre-drill a pilot hole deeper than the original screw depth (drill through jamb into framing).
- Insert the 3-inch screw and drive it in fully. The screw grabs the wall framing behind the jamb, pulling the door up into alignment.
- Close the door. Should now clear the frame.
Fix #2 — Plane the sticky edge
For humidity swelling that won't go away, or a permanently misaligned door. Removes 1/16-1/8 inch of wood from the sticking area.
Tools
- Manual block plane or electric plane
- 80-grit sandpaper
- Pencil
Materials
- Wood primer + paint to touch up planed area
- Close the door slowly and identify the exact sticking area. Mark with pencil.
- Remove the door from hinges if you need to plane the top or bottom (easier).
- Plane in the direction of the wood grain with light strokes. Remove 1/32 inch at a time and test.
- Sand smooth after planing.
- Prime and paint the exposed wood.
- Rehang the door and test.
Prevention
Every year or two, tighten all door hinge screws. If a door starts sticking, address immediately — waiting only makes the hinge damage worse. In humid summer months, dehumidification (whole-house or basement) reduces door swelling significantly.
When to call a pro
When to stop and call a pro
- Multiple doors throughout the house are sticking at the same time — indicates significant settlement.
- Diagonal cracks in walls near door frames, especially if growing over time — foundation issue.
- Door has been planed and refit but still doesn't close properly — frame misalignment beyond DIY repair.
- New construction (under 5 years) with sticking doors — call the builder under warranty.
Handyman for door adjustment: $100–$250. Structural engineer evaluation for suspected settlement: $300–$600. Door replacement including labor: $300–$800.
Cost estimate
Cost estimate
Frequently asked questions
Top hinge sag — the most common door problem. The weight of the door pulls the top hinge loose from the jamb, and the top corner of the door tilts toward the frame. The 3-inch screw fix takes 5 minutes.
Either plane the sticky area slightly (permanent — but can't be undone if the door shrinks in winter) or reduce indoor humidity (dehumidifier). Most homeowners just live with it — a slight summer stick isn't worth altering the door for.
1/16 to 1/8 inch is fine. More than 1/4 inch total risks structural damage to hollow-core doors and looks obvious. If more than that is needed, replace the door.
Possibly. Multiple doors misaligning simultaneously (over weeks or months) with wall cracks appearing suggests settlement. Get a structural engineer's opinion — $300–$600 is far cheaper than acting on wrong assumptions.